Ifrah Ahmed Revives Somali Cuisine with Pop-Ups and Cookbook
Preserving Heritage Through A Culinary Odyssey
Toronto, Canada (AX) — Exploring the savory landscapes of Somali cuisine, Ifrah F. Ahmed stands as a remarkable beacon of cultural preservation and innovation, all while artfully bridging continents and traditions.
A Journey Across Kitchens
Born in Somalia and now traveling between New York and Seattle, Ahmed is on a mission to elevate Somali cuisine through culinary pop-ups and engaging food writing. Her passion for cooking is a tapestry woven with threads of migration, cultural narratives, and oral traditions.
“Somali dishes were the core,” Ahmed reminisces. “A rotation of rice, spaghetti, and anjero, always brought back the aromas of home.”
Her childhood memories are filled with the scent of her mother’s kitchen in Seattle, where the symphony of spices and the warmth of family gatherings laid the foundation for her culinary journey.
The hearty meals of her past, ranging from goat meat to the delicacies of anjero—an artform akin to Ethiopian injera yet distinct in taste and texture—now serve as the cornerstone of her mission.
Influences and Adventures
Ahmed’s early encounters with American fast food paint a vivid picture of her initial curiosity about the unfamiliar flavors she would come to explore. “The smell of French fries wafting from the McDonald’s next door became a tantalizing invitation,” she shares with a smile, recalling her youthful fascination with diverse culinary landscapes.
As time flowed, this curiosity ripened into an earnest endeavor. Ahmed’s shift to food writing was a marriage of her twin loves—culinary creation and storytelling. Her words, now gracing the pages of The New York Times, advocate for a more inclusive reflection of Somali and Muslim cuisines.
“I didn’t realize food writing was a path until New York opened my eyes,”
she notes, reflecting on a revelation that would change her path forever.
Preserving Through Pop-ups
In pursuit of preserving Somali culinary tradition, Ahmed founded Milk and Myrrh, a venture reflecting both her heritage and vision for the future. Inspired by a vintage Somali name for their land, these pop-up events serve as both a cultural exchange and a flavorful journey.
The format grants her the freedom to experiment with regional and seasonal Somali options. In Los Angeles, she showcases plant-based meals, while in Seattle, seafood reigns. Her innovative Somali-style breakfast burrito, a delightful fusion of cultures, stands as a testament to her inventive spirit.
“People in LA love breakfast burritos. Why not infuse it with Somali flair?”
she asks, with a twinkle of excitement and satisfaction in her eyes.
Challenges and Solutions
Ahmed faces a unique challenge: translating oral traditions into written ones. This is where she dons the hat of a “culinary detective,” seeking out stories, measuring ingredients, and standardizing recipes for generations to come. It is a painstaking process, but one she approaches with passion and dedication.
From piecing together culinary stories with linguists and historians to developing recipes, she is acutely aware of her role in preserving the nuances of Somali cuisine.
“At times, I feel like I’m weaving a rich tapestry from scattered threads,”
she reflects, echoing the meticulous care required to honor her cultural roots while meeting modern tastes.
Looking to the Future
Ahmed is now venturing into her first cookbook, an exciting project that will delve into how forced migration has refined and reshaped Somali culinary practices across the globe. It will be enriched with contributions from Somali food professionals, creating a collective narrative of perseverance and innovation.
Her hope is intellectually profound yet deeply personal: to provide a platform for Somali voices within global culinary dialogue and inspire others to embrace their rich identities.
“Our food stories belong at these tables. Let’s not forget or diminish them,”
she asserts passionately, her eyes reflecting a journey of authenticity and cultural pride.