Kenya Surpasses Nigeria as Africa’s Top Used Clothing Importer
The narrative of Kenya’s bustling second-hand clothing economy is not only about numbers but about stories woven into the very fabric of everyday life. In 2023, Kenya’s import of second-hand clothes and textiles reached a staggering Sh38.5 billion ($298 million), according to data from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). For an economy and a society, what do these numbers truly signify?
Categories of Imported Second-Hand Apparel
Kenya’s import market for second-hand clothing, or mitumba, spans a wide variety of items – from the essentials like underwear to the more seasonal jackets and shoes. The diversity in these categories underscores a multifaceted demand that caters to various preferences and needs. Yet, beneath the surface, does this demand overshadow our local textile sector’s potential?
Tobias Alando, CEO of the Kenya Association of Manufacturers, echoes this sentiment. He candidly shared, “I think we have not been intentional about growing the textile sector.”
Regional Comparison: Kenya vs. Other African Importers
There’s an interesting comparison to be made between Kenya and its continental companions. In 2022, Kenya ran neck-and-neck with Nigeria in imports, both hovering around Sh34.5 billion ($265 million). Meanwhile, South Africa, known to impose restrictions on such imports, trailed slightly.
In 2023, we saw Ghana leap ahead to become the second-largest importer of used garments, importing goods worth Sh30.4 billion. South Africa and Uganda followed closely, demonstrating that the demand for second-hand clothes is not unique to Kenya.
Tax Policy Changes and Their Impact
Recently, the winds of change blew across Kenya’s fiscal landscape. Parliament’s decision to strike out the Import Declaration Fees (IDF) and the Railway Development Levy (RDL) hinted at a future with an even greater influx of mitumba. However, not everyone was on board with these adjustments.
Some claimed these amendments were quietly pushed through Parliament. Alando aptly described their effect, saying, “You are basically making mitumba coming into the country cheaper.”
Neighbouring Countries Tighten Import Controls
While Kenya eases import taxes, its neighbours, including Uganda, Rwanda, and Ethiopia, have embarked on a different journey. By tightening restrictions, these countries aim to nurture local industries and diminish reliance on imports.
High tariffs and incentives for local production have become the norm, with Rwanda risking U.S. retaliation to foster domestic growth. Their steadfastness in policy raises questions about Kenya’s own strategic vision.
Smuggling Concerns and Trade Policies
The roads traveled by second-hand clothes sometimes lead to unintended destinations. Concerns of smuggling haunt Kenyan authorities, with insiders suggesting that much of these goods trickle into neighbouring regions.
Kenya’s delicate balance is further complicated by the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). In this dance of policy and politics, does the benefit of tailoring imports at risk of losing AGOA outweigh the potential harm?
Divided Opinions on Mitumba Imports
In the heart of policymaking, debates over mitumba percolate. On one side, advocates argue for their indispensable economic role in providing affordable clothing. On the other, critics point to the stifling impact on Kenya’s own textile and apparel sector.
Political figures have not been shy about weighing in. Raila Odinga faced a whirlwind of criticism on his proposal to revamp the local industry, a suggestion he later clarified didn’t mean a hardline stance against mitumba.
Government Efforts to Revitalise the Textile Industry
Fortifying Kenya’s textile industry resembles assembling a jigsaw puzzle, with each administration adding its pieces. The value-chain approach under the Kenya Kwanza administration reflects this ongoing commitment.
Investments in Rivatex East Africa, for instance, symbolize a budding resurrection. Prospective partnerships with strategic investors could redefine the region’s textile landscape. Could this be the turning point for local production?
National Cotton, Textile, and Apparel (CTA) Policy 2024
Visionaries within Kenya have narrated a roadmap to bolster the textile industry through the draft CTA Policy 2024. This blueprint proposes pivotal steps, from establishing value-addition centers to revitalizing county industrial hubs.
The vision extends beyond borders, with plans for global campaigns promoting Kenyan-made fabrics, a resonance of faith in the value and vibrancy of local industries. With every strategic move, one ponders: can Kenya weave a legacy that champions its textiles on the global stage?
Edited By Ali Musa,
Axadle Times International–Monitoring.
